THE JET SET: What’s the deal with personal watercraft?

The personal watercraft (PWC) concept originated in the 1960s, combining the elements of self-power, small size and a maneuverable, active vessel. Bombardier Recreational Products, known for its Ski-Doo® snowmobiles, introduced a personal watercraft slightly resembling what we know today as a PWC in the late 1960s, with limited success. This craft is credited for being the first sit-down style PWC. In the early 1970s, Kawasaki Motors Corp. U.S.A. introduced the JET SKI® watercraft, the first commercially successful standup PWC.

2012 wake 155

There are currently three major companies currently active in the personal watercraft market. In the mid-1980s, Kawasaki’s JET SKI® watercraft was joined by Yamaha Motor Corp. U.S.A. Their product line of the WaveRunner® model created a market shift from the stand-up to the sit-down style PWC with one- and two-person capacity. Shortly thereafter, Bombardier Recreational Products re-joined the market with their Sea-Doo® line. Most recently, in 2002, American Honda began selling its version of a PWC, the AquaTrax®. Honda in 2009 ceased production of its PWC line.

Sea Doo (BRP) and Yamaha are the major players. Now with 39% and 35% market share respectively. Kawasaki is a distant third at 14%. One could find most any configuration with these three manufacturers. The majority of the units available today are sit-down type in a two or three passenger configuration. A myriad of options are available including a reverse function, boarding ladder, adjustable trim, cruise control, adjustable suspension and a braking system. Sea Doo currently is the only brand offering the braking system and the suspension models and as a brand, tend to be more tech oriented. Yamaha, on the other hand, lean to the more straight forward side and are preferred by rental operations. Both companies offer machines capable of over 70 MPH, with even the basic models reaching speeds of 50 plus MPH. Prices range from the mid $8000’s to over $17000. All models are now using 4 cycle engines that are cleaner, quieter and easier on the environment than the older 2 stroke versions originally produced. All are very easy to learn and a blast to ride.

Want to find out more? Get down to your local PWC dealer and ask one of the knowledgeable professionals, which model is right for you?

Steve Schumpert

Sun Sports Cycle & Watercraft

3441 Colonial Blvd, Ft Myers, Fl 33966

239-277-7777, 239-333-3530 fax

Posted by Matt Galbraith Boating Pro Tips Product/Services

Fueling Your Boat: Ethanol vs. Non-Ethanol

Summer is finally upon us. It is a great time to be in Southwest Florida, especially if you own a boat! The tarpon are rolling in, Grouper seasons are opening and the wind is actually calming down. So whether you’re a charter captain, an avid fisherman, or a recreational boater, now is the time to be out there. Before you launch your boat though, there are several things you need to remember. The usual checklist: life jackets, fire extinguisher, air horn, throwable PFD, spot light, tackle box, fishing poles, cooler, sun screen, oh, THE PLUG!… and the list goes on. But what about the one thing that actually allows you to get where you want to go? Unless you plan on paddling your way, your motor is a vital component to your boating experience. I’m not suggesting that you might forget you motor, but don’t forget to take care of it.

Many people take their motor for granted. Besides just changing your oil or cleaning your carburetor, you have to think about what products you’re putting in your motor. Everyone is familiar with ethanol fuel, but do you really know what it is and the effects it has on a motor? In a nut shell, it’s moonshine. Ethanol is highly refined (grain) alcohol, approximately 200 proof, that can be produced from natural products like corn or sugar cane. Although ethanol fuel is widely used because it is less costly up front, there are three main problems with using it in your boat: phase separation, deterioration of fuel system components, and the overall cost of keeping your boat operational.

fuel-sample

Phase separation is the separation of water and ethanol from fuel within a tank. When water is present in a tank, it bonds to the ethanol molecules in the fuel. Once the three-part mixture of water, ethanol and fuel reaches a certain point, the ethanol and water will drop to the bottom of the tank and separate from the fuel. Once this occurs, you are in danger of severely damaging your motor. Depending where your fuel inlet is located, your motor might receive the fuel portion of what is in the tank or the ethanol/water mixture. Both will cause problems with your motor. While the water/ethanol mixture will obviously cause damages, the fuel portion will be about three octane less than what it should be and therefore result in damages to your motor. Both these scenarios start with the presence of water in your fuel tank. With the humidity we have, the rains that we get, and the inherent nature of boats being on the water, let’s face it, water will get in your tank over time.

While on the topic of tanks, this is where your fuel system begins and the first point where ethanol has a chance to deteriorate your equipment. Most boat manufactures do not use fiberglass tanks anymore, however there are still several in use today. Ethanol will break down certain resins that hold the glass fibers together, allowing that debris to potentially reach your motor. Fiberglass is just one of the materials that ethanol will deteriorate. What about rubber, plastic, even some types of metal? It is true, it can deteriorate all these materials, all of which are a part of your fuel system. Many people mix additives to try to counteract the effects of ethanol, but that is a difficult and uncertain way of dealing with the problem.

Additives have been around for years, mostly to boost octane and preserve stagnant fuel for extended periods of time. More recently, additive manufactures have developed products designed specifically for ethanol treatment. The problem is, there are many different types of fuels throughout the country. They go through different refining processes, have different Reid Vapor Pressures (RVP), and they all have their own blend packages added by the major oil companies already. The chance that additive manufacturers have tested their products on all these different fuel types is highly unlikely. I wouldn’t trust my multi-thousand dollar investment on chemicals that are untested and may not be compatible with my fuel.

Furthermore, additives are expensive. Whether you are mixing in additives for ethanol compensation or to boost octane, that all has to be factored in to the overall cost of running your boat. If you add an octane booster to your fuel to make up for the efficiency you loose by running ethanol enhanced fuel, you are chasing your tail. Then factor in the cost of repairs to your fuel system and potentially your entire motor, you will be spending hundreds if not thousands more simply because you ran ethanol enhanced fuel.

In all fairness, most boat and motor manufacturers claim to have made adjustments to there manufacturing process that allow their watercrafts to accept up to 10% ethanol blended fuel. Still, the jury is out as to the long-term effects of what this fuel will do, to even the newer motors. Play it safe, protect your investment, run non-ethanol (also known as 90 Rec) fuel, and enjoy the summer waters without worrying if your motor will get you back to dry land. For more information about the advantages of non-ethanol fuel, contact your local marina mechanic or email info@EdisonOil.com.

 

Written by John Siefert, Edison Oil Company

Posted by Matt Galbraith Boating Pro Tips Product/Services

Manatee County’s biggest nautical event coming in early May!

   Come out to the West Marine Nautical Expo at Regatta Pointe Marina an MCS Band Slam to enjoy Manatee County’s BIGGEST boating and nautical event this year.
Here are just some of the FREE events and activities to enjoy:
–   Live  entertainment daily
–   High-quality boating seminars
–   Fishing Stations: learn how to fish by the best Charter Captains in the area sign up your son/daughter by 10 a.m. both days and learn how to fish from 12-2 pm and from 2 p.m. – 4 p.m. each participant will go home with a rod and reel while supplies last.(16 & under).  Parent must be present when registering.
–   Boating demo rides
–   Powerboat/Sailboat show (more than 50 boats in the water)
–   Wide variety of marine outfitters, suppliers, services and other exhibitors
–   A nautical market from 9 a.m. to 6 p.m.
Ed Massey, one of fourteen members of the Regatta Pointe Marina Association, would like the general public to be aware that this expo is about more than sales, it’s an effort to give our boating community the most valuable tool of all – knowledge. “Our association is dedicated to providing a quality, free event built around meaningful seminars,” Massey said. “Our seminar speakers are better than ever with a wide range of topics that will appeal to both power and sailing enthusiasts.”

Seminars will be held in the Eagle’s Nest on the third floor of the River House Reef & Grill building, overlooking the historic Green Bridge and the Manatee River.  Forlocation information, please visit RegattaPointeMarina.com.

Posted by Matt Galbraith Events Product/Services

The Jet Set

What’s the deal with Jet Boats? Let’s start with what a “jet Boat” is not.  A jet boat is not a boat powered by an aircraft type jet engine nor do they have flames shooting out of the back of the boat like a rocket is attached.   Jet boats, as they are most commonly referred to, are vessels propelled by an internal high pressure water pump.  The pump takes water in from the bottom of the vessel then forces the water, with power from the engine, out the back of the vessel through a shaped nozzle, creating thrust that pushes the craft forward.  By allowing the nozzle to swivel from side to side, the thrust is directed right to left to steer the boat.  There are a number of different kinds of water borne craft that use this “jet drive” system.  Personal watercraft or “jet Skis” are jet drive powered, as well as many other vessels, from small fishing and sport boats to huge ocean going people movers and public transportation.

 

 

 

 

 

Why Jet Drive? There are some distinct advantages of the jet drive system, especially to recreational users. First is safety.  Because the engine, pump, and all other sharp moving parts are inside the craft, within the engine compartment, there is nothing outside or hanging down in the water to cut or hurt someone.  Also because there is nothing hanging down below the bottom of the boat, they can operate in very shallow water without worry of damaging a propeller, prop shaft or outdrive of the other types of propulsion systems that are most common in recreational boating.   Next, jet drives produce incredible thrust, which pushes the vessel to a plane almost instantly, and with the short throw steering (only about ¾ turn from lock to lock) turning is very precise, like a sports car.

Personal Watercraft (PWC) or jet skis, waterbikes, aqua sleds and whatever else they are called use a jet drive for all the above reasons and because the engines and jet pumps can be made of light weight materials and configured in a very compact size making them ideal for this type of application.  Great acceleration, extremely nimble steering and a compact, motorcycle style package make for a lot of fun.

Thanks for reading the first installment of this column. I will be providing, in future installments, all kinds of info regarding jet drive propelled vessels including tips, care, types of craft, performance and anything else I discover that is pertinent to “The Jet Set” lifestyle. If anyone has any questions or thoughts, I can be reached at Sun Sports Cycle and Watercraft in Ft Myers anytime. Thanks again.

 

Steve Schumpert
Sun Sports Cycle and Watercraft
239239-277-7777
promotions@sunsportscycle.com

Posted by Matt Galbraith Boating Pro Tips Product/Services

Seacock Maintenance

The long forgotten seacock….yeah the valve in the bottom of the bilge that separates the world’s oceans from the inside of your boat! If this valve has such a BIG job, why is it that most of us never pay any attention to it?

At least four times a year minimum (and best to actuate them monthly) all of your seacocks or ball valves (depending on what was installed in your boat) needs to be “worked” to ensure that the valve is in working order. Additionally, a spray silicon lubricant should be sprayed on the moving parts to help keep working smoothly. If at all possible it would be ideal to check all of these valves when the boat is out of the water. If there is a problem with one of them, then it is more convenient to repair or replace. However, don’t delay opening and closing each ball valve or seacock to ensure proper functionality just because your boat is still in the water.  If you do have a problem with one of the valves, it obviously is better to find out when you are at the dock and not 50 miles offshore!

There are several types of these valves, each requiring slightly different care.

First there are gate valves. Let’s hope you don’t have any of these as they are the most prone to fail and have been prohibited to be used byNational Marine Manufacturers Association http://www.nmma.org/ approved boat manufacturers by American Boat and Yacht Counsel http://www.abycinc.org/.  It is advisable to replace any of this type of valve at the earliest possible opportunity. It is best to have skilled marine technician that is familiar with ABYC Standards replace the valves. http://www.proboat.com/2010/02/sweating-the-small-stuff/

Ball Valves- Pretty simple for routine maintenance. First make sure that the component that the valve supplying water to is turned off. Now, simply close and open the valve several times to ensure smooth and easy operation. If the valve is stuck either in the open or closed position, you may want to employ a certified marine mechanic to see if he/she can “free” it up. If not, then it needs to be replaced. In the event that a hose or seal fails “down stream” of this valve and it can NOT be closed, it gets to be pretty exciting on board as you have to “MacGyver” a field fix out on the water before your boat sinks!  Also,  while opening and closing the valve, look closely at the bronze housing for signs of corrosion and/or electrolysis. If it has any pitting or is pinkish in color, have it replaced!

Seacocks- Again, pretty simple and is treated the same as a ball valve (see above). The only real difference between the two is that some seacocks can be disassembled for inspection and greasing of the interior housing and valve assembly. Newer seacocks are designed and constructed in similar fashion to ball valves and are actually a version of a ball valve. Older and some larger seacocks have a cone shaped rotating inner valve assembly that sits inside of the housing. It is held in place with a nut and washer on the opposite of the handle along the rotating axis. When the boat is hauled, the seacock should be disassembled to have the housing and valve assembly cleaned, inspected and lubricated with water proof grease before being reassembled.

When your boat is hauled this is the time to carefully inspect all seacocks. Remove the hose attached inside. Have someone inside the boatactuate the seacock while you are outside looking up into the seacock with a flashlight. Remove marine growth and any other obstructions and insure smooth operation. And finally, completely remove seacocks for disassembly and inspection every four years, which also ensures that you’ll be renewing the bedding compound when they’re reinstalled.

 

Richard Strauss is a broker with Galati Yacht Sales, and has been around boats nearly all his life. He has a degree in Marine Technology from Florida Tech, and has worked for well-known boat manufacturers as well as operated his own boat repair facility for fourteen years. When he is not busy helping customers find the boat of their dreams or sell their existing boat, he can be found cruising the waters of Sarasota Bay. You can contact Richard at https://www.linkedin.com/in/richard-strauss-82425926 or 239-633-5724.

Posted by Matt Galbraith Boating Pro Tips Product/Services

Protect Your Boat’s Gel Coat

By Richard Strauss, Broker with Galati Yacht Sales

An effective care and maintenance program should be implemented from the beginning to maintain the overall appearance and value of your vessels gel coat. Consider that your boat’s gel coat is exposed to salt, dirt, pollution, soot, and exhaust on a daily basis. In addition to the destructiveness of forces of these elements is the sun. Removing them by weekly washing will prevent attack and breakdown of the finish, reducing gloss and reduced overall appearance. Additionally, valuable time is lost because it is more difficult to clean a damaged surface. In addition to a good weekly washing using the proper soap, it is wise to thoroughly rinse your boat with clean fresh water after each use.  Employing the extra pressure of using a pressure washer at least once a month helps in forcing out trapped dirt and salt deposits in tight areas,  around deck hardware and rub rails.

Cleaning your Gel Coat

When washing your boat use products designed for gel coat, not house hold products like Sno- Bol® and Soft Scrub® as they scratch as they clean. Also, if using a brush make sure it is a soft bristled brush designed for use on gel coat or painted surfaces. Tiny scratches will speed oxidation and dull your boat’s gel coat quickly. Once a boat oxidizes, the hull is vulnerable to greater damage from water penetration.  Additionally, house cleaning products like toilet bowel cleaners are very harsh and tend to break down the oils in the gel coat which is a petroleum base, thus speeding up the aging process of gel coat. If your boats gel coat has been well maintained and is waxed regularly, you may want to use a boat soap that has wax in it to help maintain the shine and life of the applied wax.

After washing your boat dry it off with a chamois to remove water spots after washing or use an in-line water softener such as Wet Spot® http://www.softwetspot.com/ or Yacht-Mate http://www.yachtmate.com/ .

Protecting your Gel coat

Not all waxes are created equal, and there is a reason for this. The condition of your gel coat will determine the right wax for you. If your gel coast is new and/or in excellent condition (no micro scratches, dull spots and/or oxidation then use a high quality beeswax, carnuba or silicon based wax. If you have some oxidation you may opt for a cleaner/wax product. Depending on the level of oxidation and/or minor scratches there are different levels of cleaner/waxes. For mild cases a good product is Meguiar’s Cleaner Wax 50® http://www.meguiars.com/ . For more extreme cases you may need to use 3M’s Gel Coat Restorer and Wax® http://tinyurl.com/cce6u25. If using this product, I would recommend going over your boat again with a high quality Premium Liquid Paste Wax in addition to the 3M Gel coat Restorer and Wax for extra UV protection. For a quick refresher, there are spray waxes or quick waxes. These are good to use between regularly scheduled waxings to keep up the shine while removing light dirt and water spots. Check out Meguiar’s Quik Wax 59® or Lucas Slick Mist® http://taek.me/66739 . These two products are easy to use and can be applied to painted, gel coat or powder coated surfaces as well as stainless hardware.

Frequency of waxing your boat depends on where you live. The minimum recommended waxing frequency is twice per year. If you live in South Florida, as many of us do, the sun’s intensity is a lot higher (more UV). So, it stands to reason that 3 or 4 times per year is not out of the question.

 

Richard Strauss is a broker with Galati Yacht Sales, and has been around boats nearly all his life. He has a degree in Marine Technology from Florida Tech, and has worked for well-known boat manufacturers as well as operated his own boat repair facility for fourteen years. When he is not busy helping customers find the boat of their dreams or sell their existing boat, he can be found cruising the waters of Sarasota Bay. You can contact Richard at https://www.linkedin.com/in/richard-strauss-82425926 or 239-633-5724.

 

Posted by Matt Galbraith Boating Pro Tips Product/Services

Golden Boat Lifts the Finest Boat Lifts in the World

Golden Boat Lifts is committed to manufacturing the “Finest Boat Lifts in the World.” With over 30 years of experience in all phases of boat lift manufacturing, service and consulting we provide a full range of lift systems customized for powerboats, pontoon boats, jet boats, wave runners, sailboats, and motor yachts of all types. We offer lifts to handle sizes from 1,500lbs to 250,000lbs. Each boat lift cradle is engineered and designed to fit the boat manufacturer’s recommended bunk placement. Golden’s warranty is the best in the industry, 2 years bumper to bumper and 15 years on the structure for the 4, 6 and 8 post lifts and the GatorvatorTM.

Golden Boat Lifts has the finest drive unit ever introduced for a boat lift system. The “SEA-Drive” enclosed gear system is packed with grease, which means it is maintenance free and eliminates the chance of failure due to slipping belts or broken chains. The gear box was designed exclusively for Golden Boat Lifts. It has a rating of 8,000 inch pounds of torque which far exceeds 4,000 inch pounds of torque that the closest rival’s gearbox can produce. The “SEA-Drive” comes with a 10 Year manufacturer’s warranty on gears, seals and housing and a 2 Year Warranty on electrical components.

Golden also offers boat lift covers. The Boat Lift Cover in a BoxTM protects your boat against Sun UV & Rain. It comes in variable sizes and colors. Contact us for more details!

Golden Boat Lifts Marina Golden Boat Lifts Marina

Posted by Matt Galbraith Boating Pro Tips Product/Services