Written by Hans Wilson
Friday – We woke up to a beautiful, quiet anchorage in the Creek. The tide came in during the evening, with high tide about 1:30 a.m. The boat had rotated in the channel so I got up to relieve myself and check everything. The stars were amazing and the east wind actually dropped a little to more of a breeze.
I was up early as the tide had started back out around 5:30. The sunrise was beautiful and I enjoyed a little Spa channel on the XM satellite radio and sipped my first cup of coffee while stretching my back. It has been a tough week for physical fitness but at least I am staying limber. We eventually came to the conclusion that we would wait for the bottom of the tide then add a few hours before we made the trek across the North Bight. High tide on the east side of Andros coincides with low tide on the west, with the high tide hump traveling across from east to west. So to hit the high water in the middle we needed to leave on the low tide on the west and hope that as the tide dropped on the east we would have enough draft.
The Squirrel suggested we start the day with Bloody Mary’s, which was an excellent option considering we were in one of Dwight’s resting places and one of his world famous Bloody Mary’s seemed appropriate. I fixed up my best mix and it was delicious, using my dad’s special blend, of which I refused to reveal the ingredients. Dave was onto the Worstershire Sauce but could never guess the rest. I wasn’t telling.
We were all sitting enjoying the salon, reading, writing, doing puzzles and enjoying the respite from the relentless wind and doctor flies. They had been atrocious all week. We were killing time, waiting for the tide when we spotted a conga line of spongers headed to work. They looked very solemn as they headed out into the open waters. I was working on this story when the next thing I see is Charlie Bethel pulled up next to us in his 31’ Jupiter, with twin 250’s. He was headed to town to pick up a generator and had one of his crew tailing along in a big Carolina skiff. That was our sign that is was time to up anchor and head across the Bight. The Squirrel and I finished our third Bloody Mary (yes it was a GOOD morning), pulled anchor and headed out, thankfully with Dave at the helm.
Loggerhead Creek is a nice, wide, deep waterway with mangroves on each side with a reputation for sharks. As you proceed upstream the depth quickly peters out to nothing, except the wheel channel. Dave eased us into this narrow channel and we continued our slow motoring to the east. It was a nice, uneventful run with adequate water and an occasional show of a turtle or some sharks.
We arrived just off shore from Crazy Charlie’s and decided to take him some of our extra supplies. It would be me and Em this time since The Squirrel and Dave had already been there. I mentioned to the group that Charlie Bethel, on his return from town, would probably stop by. I suggested they invite him in for a beer and to tour the boat. I knew he would be interested in the set up having already seen her from his helicopter.
Crazy Charlie was living in the Bang Bang Club but had no power and we wondered about his water supplies. We took him some bottled water, beers, some things he couldn’t eat (apples, peanuts) because he had no teeth, and stuff he could eat like peanut butter. I did a quick tour of the cottages and main building while Em engaged Charlie in conversation.
When I returned from my brief tour of the run down club, he was in full storytelling mode. As we sipped our beers, I finally asked him how he got the name Crazy Charlie, and thus began the background. He was guiding some corporate big wig from the United States and they were striking out on the bonefish. Charlie had a fly that he had tied special, which is about all he does these days, called the “Nasty Charlie”. He suggested the bigwig try it and they did very well. The story gets a little blurry, remember now I had gone from Bloody Mary’s to beers all afternoon, but my recollection is that the Bigwig asked if he could have the fly copied. Charlie agreed, and was paid something on the order of $80,000 for the rights. However, to market the fly, they couldn’t call it the “Nasty Charlie” so instead they opted for the “Crazy Charlie”. He was holding the fly that was now his namesake and handed it to me to look at. I don’t know squat about flies or fly fishing, so he could have handed me a hook with a button sewn on (The Squirrel or Dave got one of those) and I wouldn’t know the difference. I handed it back and he said “Keep it” then offered any of his flies to Em as well. I felt very privileged to receive his namesake fly and have put it in a special place.
By now Charlie Bethel had arrived so we invited Crazy Charlie to come out to the boat and visit. He was enjoying the cold beers and I bet he would enjoy both the coolness of the salon, no doctor flies, more beer and the company of our crew. He elected to motor out in his flats skiff and Dave tied him off of between the dive platform and the Jupiter. Oh what an event, having these two native Bahamians sitting in the salon telling stories.
Bahamian Story Telling Hour in the salon. L to R – Me, Diamond Dave, Charlie Bethel, The Squirrel, Crazy Charlie.
One of the stories Charlie Bethel told was of a hurricane that washed all his fuel and railing right off the deck of his 50’ sportfish they were using on a crawfish adventure.
Crazy Charlie filled in with some of the details as well, including the loss of five Bahamians that were also out on the banks. Of course Crazy Charlie would be happy to talk all afternoon but after about an hour or so Charlie Bethel needed to leave. He had his generator to deliver and would be traveling the wheel channel with the sun in his eyes on a falling tide. Not the optimum situation but I am sure he has dealt with it before.
Both gents left the Gone Astray and we pulled up anchor and continued east to the North Bight. We set anchor and the water was clear and beautiful, not like the milky waters on the west side. Em was out snorkeling and I jumped in to sober up a little and enjoy a swim. The sun was setting and I was perfectly comfortable resting on the dive platform enjoying the warmth of the sunset. I don’t know for how long but soon enough I was sitting at the dinner table eating leftover spaghetti with blue crab claws in it. The two biggest mistakes I made for the day was letting The Squirrel talk me into Bloody Mary #3 and not drinking enough water. It seems I never drink enough water on these cruises.