Written by Hans Wilson
Thursday – It was a perfect anchorage behind Williams Island. I slept like a baby, as I usually do on the boat, like in a rocking cradle. We were up and at them early because we wanted to make it back to Flamingo Cay and have a proper lunch with Charlie and Cindy. The wind was howling from the southeast so it was a long slog against the wind and waves. Our normal hull speed is 11 knots at 1200 rpm, but the wind slowed us down to 7 knots.
We were close to our anchorage and next thing we know Charlie is hanging off of our stern in his helicopter, maybe all of 20’ off the water.
Our chopper pilot and Flamingo Cay host, Charlie Bethel.
We eventually reached our anchoring location where Dave volunteered to stay on the boat and fix things (windlass, broken toilet seat), keeping an eye on the anchor. No need having the line part and the boat drift off to Cuba, realizing some refugees dream. We piled into the dinghy and headed to the wheel channel leading to the Club. It was rough but we stayed dry and got into the channel, in spite of the steering going bad on the dinghy. Cindy and Charlie met us at the dock and we were immediately plied with Stella Artois on tap. Charlie didn’t indulge, after all he was piloting the chopper. We loaded into his cart and headed to the airstrip. He had a 10 passenger Turbine Otter stored under a fabric hangar and the Eurocopter parked out in the open. Charlie set us up in the chopper, The Squirrel as co-pilot, me and Em in the back, and we were off for an aerial tour of Flamingo Cay.
The Bethel family has owned the property since 1926 and it is about 32 square miles (over 20,000 acres!). It was originally set up as a hunting camp, with duck hunting the predominant sport and bonefishing the water sport. Charlie continues to operate it as a premier bonefishing and hunting destination. We cruised over what seemed to me to be desolate lands. Open shallow waters with deep tidal creeks, turtles, bonefish, and lots of open mangroves, including a flock of flamingo’s spotted in the distance. We were really treated with the helicopter tour and being able to see so much of the area in such a short period of time.
An turbine helicopter amusement ride in the middle of Andros! Who’d a thunk.
Bonefish flats and deep access channel.
We ended back at the camp for a ground tour of the accommodations. Top shelf is the only way I can describe the “camp”, which is Charlie’s preferred connotation for the property. Luxury resort seemed a more appropo term. He had used a South African hard wood for all of his furniture, trim, and flooring. The rooms were beautiful. He took us through some of his family history, particularly the rum running days of the Bahamas supplying the United States during prohibition.
We retired to the open air dining room on one of the docks and gorged ourselves on blue crab salad, stone crabs, and white wine. Charlie and Cindy dined with us and it was a most wonderful event. Both are really charming hosts and I got the sense that they were happy to have the company of friends, not having to cater to the high end guests that show up to let their hair down.
Cindy giving instruction to The Squirrel
Sitting down for crab lunch.
The Flamingo Cay Logo
Roger Waters prize bonefish
Mila and Lou, awaiting the toss of the stick
We finally left the camp around 4:30, headed out the long channel to the boat. Once there we immediately pulled anchor and headed for our overnight berth in Loggerhead Creek. As the sun set, The Squirrel joined me on the back deck for a toast to Dwight. They all started dinners (hamburgers and salad) as I quietly placed some of his ashes in the creek. It was a beautiful sunset and I am quite sure my dad would be pleased with the beauty and remoteness of the location.
A martini toast to Dwight and a beautiful sunset in his name.