Captain Terry visits the coasts and central waters of Italy!
Last September my 1st Mate Vicki and I took off on a ‘whirl-wind’ of a vacation to explore, compare and write about our experiences and adventures fishing and boating the waters of Italy. We started in Venice where other than the ‘shoe leather’ express, the only way to get around is by boat. To my knowledge, Venice is the only place on earth where unique modes of water transportation play out in day to day living for residents, workers and visitors alike. Everyone and everything; (residents/tourists/workers and clothing/wines/foods) to mention a hand-full, are brought to the market, businesses, pensions, hotels, homes, apartments and cathedrals by a vessel of some sort and Vicki and I were no exception.
The Adriatic Sea plays ‘host’ to yachts, cruisers, fishing and pleasure boats. Unfortunately, the huge cruise ships have been allowed to frequent Venice over the past few years and they have ‘flooded’ the islands piazzas, gallerias, sites, shops, caffes and eateries with countless tourists, taking some toll on the serenity of the place. The Riva de Biasio (The Grand Canal), Venice’s main thoroughfare is busy with all kinds of boats; taxis, police, garbage, ambulances, construction cranes all sharing the canal in relative peace, somewhat reminding me of a busy weekend at the ‘Miserable’ mile on the Caloosahatche River.
Venetian (Italian) merchants, business owners, workers, (including gondoliers) and tourists alike, basically will utilize any of the following types of water transports to and from Venice and while on the island:
1) Water Taxis (expensive, high speed boats);
2) Vaporettos (moderately priced private/public system water buses);
3) Traghettos (basic Gondolas used for crossing canals);
4) Gondolas (expensive, ‘up-fitted’ Gondolas used for romantic or private intimate water tours).
The Water Taxis and Vaporettos also service the ‘outer’ islands, of eastern Italy, such as Murano, Burano and Torcello; not dissimilar to Island Girl Charters from Pineland Marina servicing N. Captiva, the Tropic Star out of Bokelia to Cayo Costa, the Banana Tour Boat out of Tarpon Point, Lady Chatwick of Captiva providing a service to merchants, workers and tourists. The Adriatic Sea islands of Venice, Murano, Burano and Torcello (to name only a few), remind me somewhat of the islands and flats around here.
There is only one main ‘Farmer’s’ Market on the island of Venice. It supplies all of the ‘outer’ islands as well. It is an extensive meat, poultry, vegetable and seafood market offering a delightful assortment of foods from many areas of Italy and beyond. Unlike our area land and sea markets, this is the ‘only’ shop around, with crustaceans and fishes from the Adriatic Sea as well as from fresh waters and lakes of the Dolomites and Italian Alps.
‘Tuscany’ (Central Italy), was our second stop. We ‘enjoyed’ touring the wine country in a vintage Fiat 500 prior to hiring a fly-fishing guide, Gianlucca Orselli, of Florence, Italy. Gianlucca is one of four terrific guides of a Fly Fishing Shop located in Florence. He grew up fishing the Arno River (which runs through the middle of Florence). He suggested that we fish the Lima River, close to the towns of Lucca and Pisa. He agreed to pick us up early one morning at a location close to our pension. Along the way we saw the old castle walls surrounding Lucca as well as other historical sites, making the ride worthwhile. Once in the mountains, the views were as picturesque as those of Northeastern Georgia. The river and its feeder creek views were comparable to places we’ve fished in Colorado and other western states as well. There is not nearly as much demand for fly-fishing guide services in Italy as there are here in the United States, but after spending the day with the guide and experiencing the time on the river, I believe that there are lots of growth possibility.
On the way up the mountain we made a brief stop for a breakfast Panini at a quaint roadside ‘caffe’ before moving on. We were getting excited by now and could not wait to get to the stream. About a half hour (1/2hr) later the guide stopped at a ‘post office’ like building, beside a bridge to purchase licenses for Vicki and I. Shortly thereafter, we put on waders and began the uncomfortable trek down the banks of the Lima River. There were two (2) other rivers that I had considered to fish, but this river was within an hour and half of Florence (where we were staying). It offered more moderate runs and required less stamina, allowing Vicki the opportunity to fish with more ease and take in the beauty of the scenery that surrounded us. This river has the reputation whereby most all beginning and intermediate ‘Italian’ anglers learn the basics of fly-fishing.
Our guide was friendly, very personable, brought us lunch and wine as we relocated to another area upstream. We worked hard to catching ‘Rainbows’ and ‘Browns’. Vicki is pictured in a beautiful ‘mountain’ river setting, as am I, with guide Gianlucca. The fishing was not as productive as we had hoped, but we would not consider trading the experience of being together on the ‘Italian riva’, in such a beautiful and exotic setting. We returned late that evening with memories of a lifetime, hoping to do it again someday.
Our third stop, the ‘Italian Riviera’, is where Vicki and I left part of our hearts in exchange for a ‘place in time’. The Cinque Terre is part of an Italian National Forrest located in the northwestern part of Italy on the Liqurian Sea. The rugged coastline is treacherous, fascinating and incredibly beautiful. The water is beautiful and as deep as the steep mountain declines indicate. Five (Cinque) towns (villages) make up the area as known above. The beaches are not of pure sand like we know it here in SW Florida, but more like small pebbles, dark and earthy but it works. The towns are built on mountain ledges with steps up to each mountain side dwelling. Facilities for fishing and boating are ‘old world’, existing basically for local fishermen that make their livelihoods on the sea, together with some water taxis and small site-seeing boats. Only a limited number of recreational fishermen on private vessels were seen close to shore. Salted Sea Bass, fresh Anchovies, saltwater shellfish (mussels, and clams) along with fresh pesto, pasta, basil and pizza made up our diets. Naturally, wine became the drink of afternoons, evenings and nights.
We chose the quaint ‘town’ of Vernazza, Italy as a ‘base’ and stayed at the harbor for three (3) nights, rented a 20 ft. boat (only one of two offered along that stretch of coastline as the other was in use as a shuttle by the owners) for two (2) days to explore the waters along the coastline. Fishermen with small hooks on long ‘Sabinki’ like lines fished the waters of the five (5) villages of; Riomaggiore, Manarola, Corniglia,Vernazza and Monterosso al Mare.
There were reports of Yellow Fin Tuna swimming along the rocks as close as 300 yards from shore. Unfortunately all we could do was wish for adequate equipment and bait to troll (next time I will take my own ‘breakdown rods’ and reels). Facilities such as repair, gas, oil, dockage, and moorings are limited. The distances to ports of calls are much farther away, requiring more preparation and caution. Assistance from the Italian Coastguard, Marine Policia are scarce. In case of emergency; count on yourself!
‘Ports of call’ may vary as to who may enter by vessel, where to enter and where one may moor or ‘tie’ up and anchor (we simply imposed). Vessels must be anchored from both bow and stern due to currents, wind and limited space. There are no signs with instructions, just local knowledge. For example, we were warned by the owner of the boat we rented, that only ‘locals’ were allowed to enter the harbor at the ‘town’ of Manarola or face a big fine from the Policia! Pulling up to a gas pump or restaurant on the water is non-existent with few exceptions of a long boat ride to the ports of call of Santa Margherita Ligure and Portofino to the west or La Spezia to the east and south in waters that may turn nasty with little notice. The safety and modern conveniences that we enjoy are no doubt the reason we get so many European tourists and property owners here in SW Florida.
We concluded our Italian ‘holiday’ with a moderate shopping spree at Santa Margherita Ligure followed with lunch at a harbor side restaurant in Portofino to experience ‘lifestyles’ of the ‘rich and famous’. We took pictures of fishermen prior to departing for France, via Monaco that evening, with memories we will cherish for a lifetime. We found that government regulations, types of tackle and equipment for fly-fishing and salt water fishing at these European destinations share a lot of commonality with us here in Florida. There are numerous exceptions however. Anyone interested in traveling the areas may feel free to contact me at www.fishfacecharters.com and I will be happy to share suggestions for boating, fishing, tackle, accommodations, eateries and sightseeing. This is Captain Terry Fisher and 1st Mate Vicki saying Bon Voyage as we head to Turkey, Greece (which just opened recreational fishing in the Aegean Sea to foreigners this year) and the southeastern seaboard of Italia this September to continue our fishing and boating adventures!
by
CAPTAIN TERRY FISHER
